Driving into town, past the osprey nests and the vulture spirit, there's nobody on the two-lane highway. I know at least one famous climber lives in this speck of a mountain town. At the Market & Cafe, anglers swarm the place in post-fishing moxie. A large stock of whiskey and beer in the center aisle. It is as big as the apple section in my old market. I love it here, though. Essentials are all I came for. Welcome to the refrigerator.